It's been a while since yours truly hit the road -- working full time
and raising two kids will cramp your wanderlust -- but last month some
friends and I did just that and headed west. We ventured to the capital
of the Rocky Mountain region, the Mile High City, better known as
Denver, Colorado.
Despite traveling a lot in my younger days, including living in the
Midwest for college and going to the West Coast several times in my
teens and twenties, I'd never been to the Central Time Zone region of
these United States. We settled on Denver because most of us had either
never been there or hadn't gone for a long time. Denver reminded me of
two other cities I've blogged about on here: the hipster-ish Portland,
OR and the industrial Kansas City, MO. Like those cities, Denver is a
repository for a certain kind of person, someone with ambition but
someone who also values beauty and fun. People from all over the country
settle in Denver. At one point, someone overhead me speaking and asked
if I was from the East Coast. When I confirmed that I was, he said he
was a transplant from Boston -- so there you go.
On our first night, we went to the Fillmore Auditorium and saw a
great, rocking Irish band called Flogging Molly. This was one of the
most crazy, out of control shows I've ever seen. Just as impressive was
the Fillmore itself. It's a massive concert venue like the Bowery
Ballroom or Irving Plaza but even bigger. The only word to describe it
is cavernous. There are maybe half a dozen bars (or more) inside the
hall and there are big chandeliers that hang from the ceiling. If
you ever get to Denver, I strongly suggest seeing a show there -- it's
quite a scene.
Next day, after beating jet lag, we saw a baseball game at Coors
Field in downtown Denver. There's nothing particularly special or
distinct about this stadium but, when you're used to seeing baseball
games either in the Bronx or Flushing, there's something very cool about
seeing the Rocky Mountains right beyond the bleachers. After the game,
we strolled along the main street (I believe it was called Market) and
went to Union Station. Unlike train stations in other cities (the Union
Station in DC comes to mind) this one is very small. However, if you
sneak upstairs, there's an almost secret bar area where you can
get some amazingly good cocktails. If you're ever in Denver, and want to
find a nice quiet spot to hang, this one is perfect. More strolling
followed, where went walked around Confluence Park. It's a not a
particularly beautiful park but there are two small rivers that merge
here -- hence the "confluence." This area is where, if the signs are to be believed, the city of Denver was founded.
The next day consisted mostly of strolling. Denver is the capital of
the state of Colorado so we walked around the impressive capitol
building. The seat of Colorado government borders the main downtown area
and another neighborhood that can only be called "funky" -- lots of
bars, restaurants, bookstores, and people walking around with long hair,
ripped jeans, and tattoos. The capitol is right across the street from
city hall, the two buildings almost in a face off, as these two photos
taken from each vantage point will attest. Nearby are some contemporary
art museums and the massive public library. On the streets are some
quite interesting public art displays.
A few blocks away is the American Museum of Western Art. From the
outside, it looks quite small, basically a converted townhouse. But
inside it's a multiple story museum with an incredible array of
paintings by Western artists both past and present. Western art is true
genre unto itself and, not surprisingly, it's highly influenced by the
Renaissance and Hudson River styles. There are paintings of cowboys,
Native Americans, settlers, land wars, even people making movies in the
desert. Again, this is a place I highly recommend if you ever get to
Denver.
We spent most of our final full day out of town in Rocky Mountain
National Park. I'm not much of an outdoors/hiking/nature type but, I must
say, venturing around this gorgeous preserve was a religious experience
pour moi. The mountains and valleys, the glaciers, the lakes and
forests combine to create an milieu and experience where you see and
feel the true beauty of this world, God's handiwork (if you believe in
God), the veil between heaven and earth worn thin. I've never felt more
at peace, more mellow, than seeing this place. I hope these photos due
it some justice. One day I hope to go back.
Finally, on our way to the airport, we checked out the Molly Brown
Museum. If you ever saw Titanic or The Unsinkable Molly Brown, you know
the story of this woman who married money and made something of it.
Unlike the vulgarian in the aforementioned movie or the singing/dancing lady in the latter, Molly Brown was a woman ahead of her time: a
feminist, a humanitarian, a passionate believer in education and civil
rights; she was a pioneer woman with a pioneer spirit. Her house,
located in a residential downtown neighborhood, is a tasteful and
elegantly preserved home. It was one of the first historic houses that
I've seen that had "modern" features i.e. a telephone, electricity,
refrigeration. Like its namesake, the Molly Brown house is a link from
the past that stretches into our present and future.
One more thing about Denver that some of you might be curious about: I
can confirm that, as one of our cab drivers said, people in this town
"Love dat weed!" Colorado is one of a small handful of states in the
union where recreational marijuana is legal and, as you might imagine,
it's quite popular. There are dispensaries all over and the smell of
"dat weed" is all over the city. Go to Denver and, if you wish, go get
yourself some legal pot -- and realize why it's so dumb that it's still
illegal in most of the rest of the country, including here in NY.
I enjoyed Denver and hope to return one day. We ate in lots of great
restaurants and did lots of walking. If you're a New Yorker, that makes
it an especially great town to visit.
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