Fourteen years ago I blogged extensively about my visit to Jamaica Bay. A massive wildlife refuge and national park located on a variety of islands in southern Queens, it's a world unto its own, part of the "blue highways" of America in a remote part of of NYC.
It's just another reminder of how huge and geographically diverse this city is.
Well, the HBO anthology show True Detective has apparently now discovered this area too. After previous seasons set in rural Louisiana, Los Angeles, the Ozarks and the wilds of Alaska, the upcoming season of True Detective will take place in Jamaica Bay.
There's no word yet on what the story will be -- it's still being written, apparently -- and no word on who will star in it (it's not yet cast) but, no doubt, I will certainly blog about when it finally premieres (scheduled for some time in 2027, around the 20th anniversary of this blog).
I'm a big fan of True Detective (although the quality of the seasons has been very uneven) but I think setting the next season in Jamaica Bay is quite brilliant -- a mysterious part of the country's biggest city, a place where doubtless lots of bodies and secrets have been buried. The idea of it is intriguing. I just hope it's good!
Did you know that there's a public space in NYC that's bigger than Central Park?
Did you know that you can take a train from Times Square and end up in the wilderness?
Did you know that, amongst NYC's many wonders, we have a national park that contains over 300 species of birds?
It's called Jamaica Bay, one of those places you see on the map but don't think about much. It's just south of Kennedy Airport and is a giant salt water marsh spread over 20,000 acres spanning the southern edges of Brooklyn and Queens. The New York Times has a huge article and amazing video about this amazing natural preserve in the greatest city in the world.
Like most New Yorkers, I've never been there, but I hope to get there soon.
Fortunately, the future of Jamaica Bay seems bright as a new generation of environmentalists and community activists are taking it upon themselves to save and preserve it. The pictures and video are amazing, seeing this wild and beautiful place with the Empire State Building and the Statue of Liberty in the background. It reminds you that as busy and sophisticated and overbuilt as NYC is, that we're still a part of nature and that we live in it. It's a reminder also that our city doesn't just build buildings and make money but also preserves its natural beauty and makes it accessible to all.
I just finished reading the amazing book Blue Highways, a travel memoir by Missourian William Least-Heat Moon.
A contemporary classic, the book chronicles a three-month cross-country odyssey that Moon took in 1978 after he had lost his job and wife. Armed with little more than some savings and a truck that he owned call Ghost Dancing, Moon drove a circle around the southern, western, northern, and eastern parts of the USA on the "blue highways" -- the secondary highways on the maps shown in blue that were distinct from the main highways marked in red.
Published in 1982, the book spent 42 weeks on The New York Times Bestseller list. And it holds up as a deep, profound tale about this country more than 40 years later.
On his adventures, Moon encounters brutal racial segregation in the south, monks in the desert, the small towns of the west and northwest -- including several spots where Lewis and Clark once roamed -- the absolute blankness of the Plains and Prairie states, and the bustling seafaring and fishing life of New England.
And he even makes it to NYC -- briefly.
In his travels, Moon was determined to avoid going into any major cities. He wanted to visit the towns and places that were, we would say today, "off the grid", away from the cosmopolitan bustle of a metropolis. He was fascinated by people who made their lives away from the main arteries and gathering places of American life -- and, as you might imagine, he encounters some really interesting characters in these places.
Moon didn't stop for long in NYC but he did manage to capture the equivalent of the city's "blue highways", the places in the five boroughs where most of the city's residents and visitors never travel to -- or through. He writes about driving into southern Queens and Staten Island from Long Island (after having taken a ferry across the Sound from Connecticut):
"... Things raced past like the jumpy images of a nickelodeon: abandoned and stripped cars on the shoulders, two hitchhiking females that nobody could stop to pick up, a billboard EAT SAUSAGE AND BE HAPPY, low-flying jumbos into Kennedy International, the racetrack at Ozone Park, bulldozed piles of dirt to fill the marsh at Jamaica Bay, long and straight Flatbush Avenue, Sheepshead Bay, Coney Island, the World Trade Center like stumps in the yellow velvet sky. Then a windingly protracted ascent up the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge (the Silver Gate of the East coast) with its world longest center span, and below the bay where the Great Eastern, the Monitor, the Bonhomme Richard, and the Half Moon sailed.
The low sun turned the Upper Bay orange. Freighters rode at anchor or headed to the Atlantic, and to the north, in the distance, a little glint of coppery green that was the Statue of Liberty. I slowed to gawk and got a horn; the driver passed in a gaseous cloud and held aloft a middle digit opinion.
The lanes descended and shot me across Staten Island; just before it was too late, I pulled out of the oppression of traffic and drove down Richmond Avenue to find the bridge across Arthur Kill into Perth Amboy, the city (if you follow your nose) that gets to you before you get to it. I don't know how I lost my way on a thoroughfare as big as Richmond, but I did. I could smell Perth Amboy, but I couldn't find it. Instead, I found Great Kills, Eltingville, Huguenot Park, Princess Bay, and Tottenville. I asked directions from a nervous teenager who was either turning his engine or stealing someone's distributor.
Just as darkness was complete, I reached New Jersey ..."
As you can see from this passage, Moon is a great writer and wordsmith. Even though his time on the NYC "blue highways" is brief, he brilliantly captures the "other side" of NYC, the more obscure, ignored, downtrodden parts of the five boroughs, far away from the glamour of Manhattan, the bustling hives of Brooklyn, the leafy suburbs of the Bronx and northern Queens, and the so-called "inner cities" (It's just a shame he didn't make it to Broad Channel!) He finds not "the real NYC" as some might call it but the NYC of the fringes, the other NYC that people who rather not travel to and forget.
Obviously his observation of the World Trade Centers makes you shudder a bit but it's still beautiful how it existed and is forever burnished this is beautifully captured moment in time.
Read Blue Highways and you'll encounter many other such moments -- an amazing read!
A few months ago, I blogged about the Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge in Queens. Believe it or not, NYC has a national park that's even bigger than Central Park, located on a salt water marsh not far from JFK Airport. When I blogged about it, I said that I had never been there but hoped to go. Well, now I've been there and can report that it's really quite amazing. Let my photos speak for themselves:
I never get tired of looking at maps of NYC. The city is such a massive, oddly-shaped, oddly-arranged archipelago of 40-odd islands that I feel like I discover something new each time: another island, another peninsula, another contour of the city and borough borders, another patch of park or green, another unexpected thing.
Befitting a city of islands, the topography of NYC also includes vast amounts of water -- the Lower Bay, Jamaica Bay, the harbor, the East and Hudson rivers, Hell Gate, Little Neck Bay, and part of Long Island Sound. This map shows just how much water is part of NYC, almost a borough of its own. You could boat or swim far from the city's shores and still be within the borders of the five boroughs.
If you include all of the water that falls within the city's limits, NYC is even bigger than you realize.
I've been listening to the public radio show This American Life for over 25 years. Recently they did an episode called "In the Shadow of the City" about people who live on the fringes of big cities (something I've also blogged about).
Anyway, one of the segments in this episode is called "Brooklyn Archipelago" about how a bunch of Ukrainian teenagers from Brooklyn managed to get themselves shipwrecked and washed up on a deserted island -- right in the sight of the Empire State Building and Midtown skyscrapers.
A short boat trip in Jamaica Bay turned into a day-long saga more akin to Robinsoe Crusoe or Gilligan's Island (Castaway or Lost). It's a hilarious story about the immigrant experience, being young and reckless, and how the geography of NYC never fails to surpise.
It's also a classic example of how you Gotta Love New Yorkers.