Wednesday, March 26, 2008

per se





Mr NYC has been fortunate to eat at some of this city's finer restaurants -- Nobu, Le Perigord, Rao's, Peter Lugar's. Many of them I've written about here. There are still many great restaurants here that I hope to go to one day. This past weekend, however, some friends and I went to per se, considered by many the best restaurant in New York and one of the best in the world.

Did it live up to the hype? Could it possibly? At first I was skeptical. But four hours, two bottles of wine, and nine courses later -- my palette and head overloaded with succulence -- I was sold. Oh man, was I sold!

First: the location. High-up in the Time Warner Center on 59th street and Columbus, per se overlooks Columbus Circle and the lower expanse of Central Park. Needless to say, the view is beautiful.

Second: the door. As you can see here it's got a lovely blue door but it doesn't actually open. Instead, the glass sides slide open, activated by motion detectors and ushers you in.

Third: the service. Perfect. Friendly. Makes you feel like a millionaire. My water glass was always full. Each course was explained (even telling us where the fish and foul and meat was imported from). You really feel taken care of.

Fourth: the wine list. Huge. An oenophile's delight. If it's been bottled, they got it.

Fifth and most important: the food. Transcendent. Amazing. Delicious beyond comprehension. per se doesn't have an a la carte menu, you order one of two tasting menus, the Chef's or Vegetarian (it changes everyday and costs $275 per person). We had the Chef's menu and it consisted of:

"Oysters and Pearls" (i.e. caviar)
Salad of Sacramento Delta Green Asparagus
"Torchon" of Moulard Duck "Foie Gras"
Grilled "Pave" of Hawaiian Big-Eye Tuna
Pan Seared Maine Sea Scallop
Four Story Hills Farm's Poularde Rotie en Cocotte
Sirloin of Blackmore Ranch's Australian "Wagyu"
Blackberry Farm's "Trefoil"
"Shirley Temple" (ginger sherbet)
Clafoutis (puff pastry)

Some of the dishes were tiny, other's were standard size. The meal includes hor'dourves (some kind of delicious cheese balls and salmon bites), bread, and a variety of exotic salts. It's good to start with a white wine and then move into a red for the heavier courses.

After our meal, the waiters took us on a tour of the kitchen where we thanked the chefs and I, nerd that I am, shouted "God bless you all!" Then they gave us copies of our menus in white folders and boxes of chocolates as we went back out the sliding glass doors.

Afterwards, sated like never before, my beloved and I walked home along Central Park South, a full moon shining down on us below, the night air crisp and cool. And on this night, my beloved and I truly felt like we were living at the end of the rainbow.

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