I've been to Rome -- twice.
How can I put my love of the Eternal City succinctly?
Well, if there was another place anywhere else in the world where I would want to live besides NYC, it would be Rome. I feel at home there, comfortable and serene, like the city is embracing me in its millennia-old arms. Every block is gorgeous, the streets bursting with history. You are reminded at how long the arc of history is, how young a country we in America live in. To be in Rome is to be in history -- and heaven.
I've seen everything there is to see in Rome (and much, much more): the Vatican, the Spanish Steps, the Borghese Gardens, the Trevi Fountain, the Coliseum, the Forum, the Pantheon, the Circus Maximus, even the Baths of Caracalla, and more churches than I can remember.
But there are some things I saw that are somewhat off the beaten path -- and couple things you should do if you ever get to Rome.
First, arrange for a tour of the Vatican Gardens. It's a huge, beautiful park with numerous oddities like the Chinese Gazebo. You get a behind the scenes look at the Vatican, the history behind the history. My favorite thing was seeing the Papal helipad -- a square marked with yellow lines. Like the President, when the Pope leaves the city, he is airlifted via helicopter to the airport. The helicopter is provided by the Italian government but the Vatican is an independent state -- so the interior of the lines is Italian territory, and none of the helicopter pilots or personnel is allowed to traverse the lines or its considered an invasion!
Second, a short walk away from the Vatican, is the Castle Sant'Angelo. This building is over 1,000 years old and was, for centuries, the Pope's prison, the Vatican's dungeons. Walking around the gloomy but fascinating old jail, where people were tortured and murdered, you see the dark side of power and history. Ironically, if you go to the room of this place, you will see the most beautiful views of Rome. I've been surprised at how many people planning trips to Rome have never heard of this place. It's almost a secret.
Third, if you ever want to see the Pope in person, you can either go to the Sunday at noon blessing he gives from the Vatican widow or the Wednesday audience he gives from St. Peter's Square. When we went many years ago we saw then-Pope Benedict at both events -- and it was fascinating to see the Vicar of Christ in the flesh.
Fourth: Rome is not just the Eternal City but also the nocturnal city -- it stays up late. Near to where we stayed was the famous 24-hour bakery Dolce Maniera. You can stay out really late or get up really early and find fresh yummy baked goods. We went there almost every day -- and night.
I also love the history of Rome so here are two suggestions: the 1970s miniseries I, Claudius (that gave us the actors Derek Jacobi, John Hurt, and Patrick Steward -- with hair!) and The Borgias (about a very corrupt family that grabs and usurps the greatest power on earth -- they pulled it off 500 years before the Trumps).
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